If you have ever dreamed of walking through narrow streets that hide centuries of history, savoring mouth-watering street food while breathing in the salty air of the Mediterranean, then Apulia is made for you. My recent five-day trip to this magical region of southern Italy was a true immersion in authenticity and beauty, revealing hidden treasures that I am delighted to share. Here is what I discovered and learned.
Day 1: Authentic First Steps to do in Bari
Upon my arrival, I chose to dive directly into the soul of Bari. My goal was to understand this city before venturing further. Bari’s Old Town has proven to be an incredible destination for those seeking a true Italian adventure. I was immediately charmed by its historical appearance and the countless medieval buildings that dot the streets. Far from being a simple open-air museum, the Città Vecchia is a vibrant place where local life is in full swing.
I explored the Piazza Mercantile, a dynamic square that teems with activities. Surrounded by magnificent palaces, this bustling crossroads offers a plethora of restaurants, bars and cafes where one can delight in the delicious local cuisine. It is a place of great historical significance, long anchored in the cultural heritage of Bari. In the evening, the square comes alive with street performers, adding an extra dose of entertainment to Bari’s vibrant nightlife scene.
One of the most memorable experiences of this first day was the discovery of the Strada Delle Orecchiette. It is there that one can observe local women expertly making and selling handmade pasta. I have been fascinated to see these artisans perfecting the art of making traditional Orecchiette for generations. It was not only a feast for the eyes, but also a captivating cultural experience. I bought one bag of Orecchiette, and the quality and taste were exceptional, a delicious edible souvenir of the flavors of Bari.
Day 2: Dive into the Sacred History and the Fortification of Bari
My second day was dedicated to the exploration of the major historical and religious sites of Bari. I started with the Basilica of San Nicola, a real architectural gem and a symbol of religious significance. Upon entering, I felt a sense of peace and tranquility, surrounded by the spiritual aura of the place.
The basilica is a marvel of southern Italian design and an important pilgrimage site for both Orthodox and Catholic churches. One of the most important lessons I have learned from this visit is not to “forget to pay tribute to Saint Nicholas”. Her grave is in a crypt below, and seeing people praying and celebrating there is a very moving experience.
Right next door is the impressive Cathedral of Bari, also known as the Cathedral of San Sabino. This relic makes it a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts and those seeking a spiritual experience. Inside, the exquisite works of art, impressive frescoes and ornate sculptures tell the rich history of the region.
Then I visited the Castle of Bari, also known as Castello Svevo. This fortress, built in the 12th century, stands on the western edge of Old Bari. From the top of its towers and ramparts, I was entitled to a breathtaking view of the city. I learned that a guided tour with well-informed inhabitants can enrich the experience, learning intriguing facts about King Frederick II who commissioned its construction.
The small museum inside houses fascinating relics that highlight the dynamic past of Bari. I also noticed, as the sources suggest, that while the interior is not filled with ‘historical things’, the observation of the pillars and columns reveals unique patterns. For only six euros, it’s a visit that is worth the effort to appreciate the architecture of a fortified Norman castle.
Day 3: The Enchantment of the Trulli of Alberobello and the Beauty of Locorotondo
For my third day, I went on a day trip to Alberobello, a fascinating city located in the heart of Apulia, a short distance from Bari. It is a place where one finds a truly unique architectural marvel: these whimsical structures with conical roofs, resembling wild mushrooms, are a spectacle that cannot be seen anywhere else in the world. These houses, called trulli, are listed as UNESCO World Heritage. Their charm also lies in their peaceful atmosphere and the fascinating history hidden behind these whitewashed stone houses. I learned that trulli were built without mortar to avoid taxes on full brick houses, which can be quickly dismantled if necessary.
I spent time walking through the narrow streets, soaking in the picturesque views of the hills and admiring the olive groves that line the path. I also learned to differentiate the zones: the Rione Monti is very commercial with many shops and restaurants. On the other hand, the Rione Aia Piccola is less touristy, more authentic, with trulli rented or inhabited by local residents. For the most beautiful view of the conical roofs, the viewpoint near the Santa Lucia church is unmissable. I even discovered that we can rent these houses on Airbnb, an option I am keeping in mind for next time.
At the end of the day, I made a short detour to Locorotondo, a charming white city perched on a hill. It offers magnificent views of the vineyards and olive trees, especially from the municipal park Villa Comunale. Walking through the narrow and winding streets of this city is a real pleasure. I savored a cannolo there that was exceptional, the best I have ever tasted, even after having had many in Sicily. I also learned that Locorotondo turns into the most beautiful city of all Apulia during the Christmas period thanks to its festive decorations.
Day 4: Monopoli, Pearl Coast of Apulia
My fourth day took me to Monopoli, a charming town located just south of Bari. Its appeal lies in its picturesque historic centre, beautiful beaches and mouth-watering seafood. I was truly won over by Monopoli, with its white houses, green shutters and many picturesque corners. The maze of charming streets in the Old Port leads to beautiful places like Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. I particularly enjoyed Via San Vito and the church of Saint Vitus the Martyr, with its green door and potted plants, a perfect spot for beautiful photos.
The heart of the city is the port, filled with colorful fishing boats, an excellent place to walk and observe daily life. I learned that it is preferable to go there in the morning to see the fishermen return with their catches and sell fresh fish directly from their boats.
Monopoli is also renowned for its beautiful beaches with crystal clear waters. I visited Cala Porta Pia, a very accessible urban beach. What I learned here is that even though the main beach of Polignano a Mare is very famous, the beaches of Monopoli are a much better option if you are looking for less crowds and more tranquility. While walking along the coast, I discovered Porto Bianco and Porto Rosso, the latter being the largest and least frequented, perfect for sunbathing. I was also able to rent a boat or a kayak to fully appreciate the beaches, as suggested in the sources.
For dinner, I tried the restaurant Angelo Sinu, a more elegant place for a romantic dinner. I particularly enjoyed the selection of sea and land appetizers, as well as the pistachio pasta, a paradise for pasta lover. Interestingly, the prices were reasonable for a high-end restaurant. I learned that Monopoli is an excellent base to explore the region, or even the best in the region thanks to its selection of restaurants and beaches.
Day 5: Polignano a Mare and Ostuni, the White City
My fifth day was a mix of popular attractions and charming cities. I started with Polignano a Mare, a city that is perhaps familiar to many thanks to the most popular beach of all Puglia and its famous troglodyte restaurant, Grotta Palazzese. Although the city is superb with its narrow alleys, potted plants and aesthetic decorations, the beach of Lama Monachile was a mixed revelation. I learned that despite its popularity, this beach is the most crowded I have ever seen.
Even in May, which is nevertheless the low season, there were so many people that it was difficult to find a place to lay down a small towel. The swimming experience was not pleasant, and I do not absolutely recommend it if one is looking for a relaxing time to swim. It’s an important lesson about the reality of high-profile venues.
On the gastronomy side in Polignano a Mare, I tasted the famous special coffee, a typical drink of the city composed of coffee, sugar, cream, amaretto and lemon or lime zest. I also followed the recommendations for ‘octopus sandwiches’ and ‘Neapolitan pizzas’.
In the afternoon, I headed to Ostuni, a charming white city perched on a hill, also known as La Città Bianca. Ostuni is small, and two or three hours are enough to explore it, but be careful, there are many stairs. Walking through the winding streets of the old town is discovering a unique charm, with its white limestone houses creating an incredible atmosphere. I learned that it is worth getting lost in the labyrinth of narrow streets to find hidden corners, small squares and charming shops selling local products.
The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, built in the 15th century in the Gothic style, stands on top of the hill. For the most beautiful sunset, I recommend the Borgo Antico Bistro, which also offers an excellent platter of local appetizers. An interesting culinary experience in Ostuni was the focaccia barese, described as warm, fat and delicious with tomatoes and olives. I learned that the legendary Santa Rita bakery is where to find some, and a good strategy is to go there minutes before closing time to avoid long queues. It was incredibly tasty and of a fantastic price.
Last Impressions and Travel Lessons
This 5-day trip in the region Apulia through Bari and Puglia was an adventure rich in discoveries, flavors and encounters. From the authentic effervescence of Bari to the serenity of the trulli in Alberobello, through the coastal charm of Monopoli and the vibrant history of Ostuni, each day has brought its share of wonder and practical lessons. Apulia is a region that invites you to slow down, soak up its unique atmosphere and delight in its culture and cuisine. I can only encourage you to go there and make your own unforgettable memories.